It is an overcast, slightly rainy, kind of a grey day.  Not so much like a Panama rainy day, which  usually affords a  more vigorous downpour and a display of lightening with accompanying thunder.  It's more like an Oregon coast rainy day, just drizzly and dreary

Thought I might like to look back some day and remember how we passed a stay-at-home day here in Tierra Oscura.  So here goes:  We get up early and put on the pot to heat water for coffee.  It is still dark so we go out on the deck to watch the sky lighten and listen to the morning sounds.  Lots of birds.  Howler monkeys behind the house, lately coming closer.  Two troops of them.  I suppose they are calling back and forth to establish their territories
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We both check our computers to see if we have any interesting news from home.  (Not often enough!) and I feed Turbo who is most appreciative and affectionate!  Soon after that I feed Lester who is also appreciative and affectionate but indicates his pleasure verbally rather than by  touching my hand with a cold wet nose.

About 7:30 the short wave radio fires up announcing that Bocas Net will begin its morning announcements in 15 minutes.  When it does begin, various home owners and cruisers in the area call in to indicate they are listening.  Lester does that for us as I am radio shy!  "Ben 64", he says. (That is the call signal for this address.) I guess I could say that.  But I'd rather not.  Anyway, what follows are announcements about items for sale, trade, or wanted to buy, community events, and the weather report, etc.  So far as I can tell the weather report is pretty much the same every day.  40-50% chance of rain and thunder showers.  Apparently the usual for this time of year and so the report is accurate and probably could be delivered by recording. But this Bocas Net event is a highlight of our day and makes us feel a part of the community even though we are all pretty isolated.

Lester is a three meals per day kind of guy so it isn't too long after breakfast and breakfast cleanup that it is time to do lunch and lunch cleanup.  I usually read in the afternoon, check the computer again for any messages and then get started on dinner and dinner cleanup. (I usually cook with wine, and by that I mean, with a glass of wine in my hand while cooking.It is my reward for being a good girl all day)    Lester will spend the afternoon on computer games.  Occasionally we play a game of  Cribbage. Today I vacuumed and cleaned the humming bird feeder and refilled it.  I keep a wary eye on the solar power indicator on the wall here.  If there is plenty of power I will plug in the heater in the linen closet to prevent mildew there.  If not, I will skip that day.  Decisions, decisions!

I put together a jigsaw puzzle on the coffee table.  Spent some time on it each day for about a week
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After dinner we may play another card game, spend some time relaxing on the deck enjoying the evening sounds (Like the whoop, whoop of the frogs) before Lester goes back to his computer as do I.  But he plays games while I look for something on NetFlix before going to bed.  And that is a typical day at home. ( I am really looking forward to going to town tomorrow!!!)

Apologies due to the floating restaurant in Bocas!  In previous post I said that the food was not that great.  I should have said that breakfast was not that great.  But lunch!  Now there is a real winner.  We arrived in town later yesterday so ordered the beer batter fish and chips and, I want to tell you,  that was awesome.  Can't wait to go back!

Lester came down with some kind of flu bug about a week ago and was sick for most of 4 days.  Fever, aches and pains, he slept through most of it and finally came out on the other side about Tuesday.  Wednesday turned out to be a really gorgeous day.  Hardly a cloud in the sky and the water was as smooth as glass all the way into Bocas town and almost that smooth on the way back.  Finding a dock that is open and the business is willing to let you tie up is a bit of a problem.  But at the far end of town is a big boat that is a floating restaurant and has a dock we can use while in town.  Of course, they expect you to eat there as well, which is too bad as the food was not that great. Probably the quality of food offered there  is the reason for the abundance of docking space.  That's my guess anyway.We spent several hours in town.  Had lunch, shopped for groceries.  It was good to get out after so many days at home.

Yesterday we hit the water again, this time making a trip to visit our former neighbors from when we house sat here 2 years ago.  Carl and Mary live on the next bay, Dolphin Bay.  This house is on Almirante Bay.  There are small islands and mangrove mazes everywhere you go.  Easy to get lost here although we remembered some of the routes from the last time we were here (and were often lost back then!) While we were sitting out on their wrap around deck the howler monkeys arrived in the tree tops at the back.  So entertaining to watch them.  Such nice people! Carl and Mary, that is.  I suppose the monkeys are nice too though.

One note of interest, before I forget to mention it, is the short wave radio(single side band, Les calls it) that we have in the house.  Many of the people in the area have one and it is the major means of communication here.  Every morning about 8:00 they make announcements and share  bits of news and  advice.  Throughout the day people contact each other on this radio.  Jan and Brent (home owners here) are Ben 64.

We saw a dolphin out in front of the house this morning. Loved that.  Am watching for a sloth!

June 26, 2014
Today is day 6 of our Bocas del Toro adventure 2014.  Since my memory tends to fail me from time to time these days will try to get this blog up and running while I am still able to do so.
Day 1- Was, of course, the flight down.  Uneventful.  No delays, missing luggage, etc.  We took a cab from the Panama City airport to the Milan hotel which proved to be quite comfortable.  ($66) Had a nightcap in the bar before heading to bed.
Day 2 -.  A cab to the bus terminal where we purchased tickets to David (pronounced Dah- Veed) $15 each, 7 hour trip.  Double Decker bus and we had the premier seats up top in front!  The route to David (Dah-Veed) is surprisingly straight, passing through a wide valley of what appears to be mostly farmland.  From the bus terminal we took a taxi to the Alcalar Hotel. Again quite comfortable. ($41)  Another nightcap before bed.
Day 3- A small bus to Almirante this a.m.  The scenery over the mountains and across the continental divide was spectacular.  An interesting trip became even more so when we realized that we qualified for chicken bus status with chickens in a cardboard box across the aisle from us and a potato sack with what must have been a couple of wiggling piglets flung on top of the bus as we left the terminal.  Along the way we picked up and left off many travelers , some of whom were firmly pressed, one against the other, in the aisle leaving the bus helper hanging off the side of the bus. It was an even more interesting  trip than the day before.
We were met at the terminal in Almirante by the people for whom we are house sitting and taken by boat to their home (lovely home!)Pictures to follow! Dinner at Rana Azul. More details to follow on Rana Azul as well.
Day 4- We followed Jan and Brent around trying to learn the dos and don'ts of off grid living.  Dinner included  an incredible meatloaf that I will have a recipe for at a future date.
Day 5- We took  Jan and Brent to Almirante to catch a bus and then back to the house where we did nothing.  Stayed home and enjoyed the absence of anything that needed to be done!
Day 6- Off to Bocas del Toro for a shopping trip early this a.m.  Had some difficulty figuring out the GPS but made it into town fine and bought supplies for the next week.  Only forgot a few things!Heavy rain coming back but as an Oregonian, that is never a problem!

It occurred to me the other day that I have not yet posted a final report from the Spring 2014 Central America Adventure Log. Some day, when I am really old, (not just sort of old, as I now am) I expect to read all this and smile with fond remembrance of these good times. Better get it down before I forget. So here goes:  Carol and Frank came down and spent our last few days on Caye Caulker with us.  From there we went to Roatan, Utila, Copan, Antigua, and San Marcos on Lake Atitlan.  We had a great time.  Well, I can do better than just that so here are some of the details.
We flew from Belize City to Roatan on the new Tropic Air service offered there.  Our destination was West End where most of the little hotels are located.  We stayed at Arco Iris, each with our own little kitchen and a large shared balcony where we enjoyed many a game of cribbage after spending time on the beach in front of the hotel.  We rented a car for a day and toured the island, stopping at a little eatery (Cal's Cantina) with a magnificent view and the best cheeseburger I have ever had!  We drove over to West Beach for breakfast before turning the car back in.
It had been our plan to go by boat directly from Roatan to Utila but the trip was cancelled due to weather (my guess is the boat captain came up with an alternate plan for that day, but okay).  So we went by ferry to the mainland and then from there by ferry out to Utila.where we had a house on the shore rented for a few days.  The place turned out to be outstanding.  Right over the water with a view of town and boat traffic coming  and going in the harbor between.  A wrap around balcony and well supplied kitchen completed the setup.  We took a tuktuk tour of the island and were especially impressed with The Jade Seahorse, a fairy tale like place where the owner has spent years creating an intriguing scene from bits of broken tiles and glass and various other oddments. From Utila we took the ferry back to the mainland (La Ceiba) and made our way to the bus depot where we learned that we could take the bus to San Pedro Sula but the bus on to Copan from there was sold out.
San Pedro Sula is hailed as the murder capitol of the world.  But we were welcomed and treated so nicely, staying in a small hotel down town with our only hint of violence a caution from the hotel about not walking the streets after dark.  No problem there as I can't keep my eyes open after dark anyway.
In Copan we stayed at ViaVia, a cute little hotel attached to a rather noisy restaurant.  But also the headquarters for many interesting tours. The hotel was reasonably priced at $18 per night! Carol and Frank went to the ruins at Copan (where we went last year) and we went to the hot springs.  Lester and I each had a great massage!
Next on our trip was Antigua for Semana Santa (Easter Week). We stayed at a small hotel (Pasada San Vicente) with a lovely courtyard and pleasant rooms.  Carol's cousin and his wife  who are in the area waiting to begin a Peace Corp assignment joined us in Antigua.  The Easter celebration there is impressive.  Amazing, actually.  We believe that at least 3,000 people , in costumes, took part in the processions.  We later learned that they all had to pay to participate, with the more expensive parts going to those who start out walking from the church.  The floats were carried on the shoulders over the cobblestone streets and over the flower carpets arranged daily on the parade routes.  The crowds were unbelievable.  At times they were pressed so tightly together it was difficult to move other than inching along and hoping not to lose your footing on the rough street.  Frank and I each got caught up in the crunch at which time he was relieved of his wallet and I lost my camera.
From Antigua we traveled up into the mountains to Panajachel and Lake Atitlan, left by a long ago  volcano  eruption.  It is considered to be one of the world's most beautiful lakes situated as it is between three remaining volcanoes. We went by launch to the village of San Marcos where we had rented a house for the week.  The house was lovely and the surrounding garden awesome.  But the rough and rocky trail up to the house was an unwelcome development.  Especially as yearly (or maybe even daily) I become less sure footed and less able to climb. Which speaking of climbing, Carol and Frank climbed up the volcano at San Pedro.  Pretty impressive! (We, instead, went for another massage.)  Hey, we know how to have a good time too!
At the end of the week back down the hill to Guatemala City airport and a homeward bound flight.  Another fine adventure.







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RAIN!  (part two)
Our trip to Guatemala!
But first a report on Gypsy Wind, our poor sailboat.  She has been waiting and waiting to go back in the water.  Lester had left it out this year so he could sand the bottom and apply an anti-fouling paint to protect it for the next couple of years.  Unfortunately the boat must be dry before application and dry is not in our vocabulary at the moment.  Also he had to wait for the motor parts we shipped down to arrive so he could repair the motor (needed to motor the boat out to where it can be sailed.) The motor is now ready but Gypsy Wind is still waiting to be sanded and painted.  Not to mention that it is extremely difficult to reach the marina where she waits due to so much water on the roads.  I will be going back to California the last week of Jan.to take care of some necessary business and we are hoping she will be ready to sail when I get back!

Now, about Guatemala!  The good news is that making the circle through Florence and Tikal, Rio Dulce and Finca Tatin, Livingston and Placencia is an amazing trip.  From majestic Mayan ruins to overgrown jungle retreat, to the Garifuna town at the mouth of the Rio Dulce, to a lounge chair on the lovely beach at Placencia  is truly an adventure to remember.  The bad news is that doing it during the cold front that moved in and in the rain that persisted even after leaving Belize did  take the edge off  some of the joy.  But not for long!  We are all tough! We were joined on most of the trip by an Alaskan named Kurt who had been staying in the same housing complex with us here on CC.  Kurt bailed in Livingston, choosing not to return to Belize now but instead to remain there renting a place, studying Spanish by day and cavorting with the locals by night!  Just kidding, he seemed like a nice enough guy.
Of all the Mayan sites I've visited, Tikal is  (to me anyway) the most impressive.  With pyramids rising out of the jungle and the call of howler monkeys, and amazing tropical birds on the wing, it has a real otherwordly feel to it.  Flores, the little island town reached by causeway is picturesque and inviting.  Although not quite so attractive  in a howling rainstorm (We had nice accommodations with a balcony overlooking the lake.  It was by far our splurge as far as rooms went. But weather prevented us from taking advantage.)
Finca Tatin is a favorite of mine.  Ever since I saw a pen and ink drawing made by my Italian friend, Fabrizio, of the thick jungle entrance to the retreat I had wanted to go there.  And it has never disappointed!  From there we kayaked down river to Livingston.  It is about a 2 1/2 hour trip, most of it a leisurely paddle.  We were so lucky to have one perfect sunny day to enjoy this adventure.  We arrived at the dock of the small hotel where we planned to stay and that is where the real fun began..  All I can say is, too bad we did not have a video of that event to enter in some funniest video contest!  I got to climb out of the kayak first and, while there is never a way to do this gracefully, my exit was a total disaster.  Even with the help of the hotel manager, I fought and wobbled, and huffed and puffed and was finally able to get out only by somehow getting my butt on the dock and crawling on my belly from there.  Gail was next and she did better but only by a little.  The guys, after seeing our problems came out more easily with Tim even scrambling up that wooden ladder in record time.
The worst of the cold front hit us that night and remained with us throughout the next day. It was so cold I considered taking the rug off the floor to cover the blanket on my bed.  But managed by wrapping my feet and legs in a towel under the blanket.
We left Livingston early the next morning in what had to be the ultimate hair raising experience of our trip.  We went by boat (small launch) from Livingston to Punta Gorda, Belize bouncing over and through  5 foot swells in open water, no land in sight.  I don't know about the others but I was praying.   Gail says she now knows how it would be to ride a bucking bull.  ..But we survived.  Like I said, we are tough!
The skies cleared for a good part of our last day which we spent on the beach at Placencia.  It was perfect to be able to relax on the beach at the end.  The next morning Tim and Gail headed for the airport and the homeward bound series of flights and we took the bus back to Belize City.  It was a great trip!  
  

RAIN!  In all of my winters here this is most definitely the wettest.  The streets have been constantly flooded.  Sandbags lining some of the streets allow walkers to make their way along the edges without wading. .  Bicycles plow through the puddles, their riders in constant jeopardy of falling into a teeth jarring hole.  It has been a different kind of adventure!
Fortunately our neighbors, Tim and Gail, are the best sports.  Our enthusiastic descriptions of sun and snorkeling have fallen short of the mark this year.  And that's putting it mildly! But they have managed to swim, snorkel and sail with Ragamuffin between cloudbursts.  And have spent many an hour reading and relaxing on their porch in between. We have made the rounds of all the best eateries on the island, although we had to settle for home cooked meals whenever the heavens opened up right at dinner time.
As always, The Wish Willy has been our favorite.  For those of you who have never experienced Maurice's fine foods served in a rustic outdoor environment this is the ultimate in Caye Caulker dining.  Granted, there are places more upscale, but none with better food.  It has become our habit of letting him choose our meal.  We just say, "Whatever you have please!" and he brings a platter of various meats and seafood (usually lobster, shrimp kabobs, fish, pork chops or steak, etc) and we each get a plate of rice and vegetables to go with that.  Dinner and a couple of rum and cokes to wash it down usually runs about $10.
Almost immediately upon arriving we learned that this will be our last year in this sweet little house as the property is being sold to the big fancy hotel next door.  This is sad in a way as we have (or I should say, Lester has..)  made many improvements to the place and it has become, in our hearts and minds, our second home.  We have enjoyed the perfect sunsets from the back yard and made friends with the owners and neighbors.  The downstairs storage was perfect and having the boat right out back, as well as a great kayak launching area, was an additional convenience.  But life is change.  And sometimes it is good for us to be prodded into action by change!  So I began the search for a new home and found a sweet little beach house on the front side of the island which we have already  reserved for next year.  Before we leave this year I will be transferring small appliances, and other items that have been brought down over the years to the new place.  No storage there but will just leave it all to be enjoyed by other renters who are here while we are gone.
An interesting coincidence concerning our new landlady.  It turns out that I remember her from our first visit to Caye Caulker approximately 20 years ago.  That was in a time before the regularly scheduled water taxis.  In those days you went to the Texaco station on the river in Belize City and asked for Chocolate's boat.  There was no particular departure schedule. The boat just left when it was full.  While waiting we noticed a woman and her small son, who it turned out to be, was a fellow Californian, marine biologist, graduated from Humbolt, living on Caye Caulker.  We visited the little souvenir shop in her home, Frank (Rosa) and I each purchasing a matamosquito, which, as the name implies, is a tool (long natural broom made from native bush) used to kill mosquitoes.  I still have mine hanging by the wall in the living room, ready for duty!  The lady  is still here,and is our new landlady!  Her son is now in his 20's.
I had better quit for now as I am feeling uneasy about this suddenly disappearing.  It has been known to do just that on excruciatingly painful  occasions!  Back soon with tales from our Guatemala adventure with Tim and Gail!        .